Friday, November 16, 2018

From the depths of a forgotten blog.....Lamellar Armor!

Hej folks! (I'm working my way through Swedish on Duolingo. You might see some pepper my posts.)

I was doing pretty good about posting new projects here. Then I switched jobs twice and moved to a different state. Now I'm trying to get myself back into the swing of posting some things. Here goes!

Last weekend I went to a new LARP, Dammerung . It's a Saga LARP based on Nordic cultures and myths. It was the perfect place for me to use all of the Swedish and Viking knowledge I've amassed for the SCA in a new way. AND I already had most of the things I needed. Well, clothes and armor wise. The lamellar armor I had made for the SCA 5 years ago was perfect for this. I love being able to use costume/garb/kit things at more than one venue. The game was pretty awesome. It's in it's initial phases, and I can't wait to see what becomes of it. Also, LOTS of people loved my armor. It was odd and wonderful at the same time to get some admiration for something I had made in 2013 that the "new" feeling was gone from. A couple people asked me where I got it and when I said I made it, they were envious and curious. This seems like a perfect excuse to write a new post.


This is my costume for that game. I'm really very happy how it turned out. Especially because it was a bit thrown together. Though I didn't make the dresses I'm wearing, I've made other similar dresses. I'll be making some more for nest game. These were borrowed. The shield was a borrowed one. (There might be a future post about how I'm making my LARP safe shield.) The ax was custom made by Corvidae Cordis. He's such an amazing foamsmith! Mad props to him. Everything else was my work. 

Back to the armor.

In 2013, 3 SCA brothers and I decided we wanted to have more period and persona correct armor. We each had coat of plates or Kydex armor in some way, shape, or form. But, we all have Norse personas. After some research and pricing things out, we ended up going with pre-cut and stained lames. We got them here. Viking Leather Crafts . The guy from the shop I emailed with was very nice and I'd absolutely recommend anything he sells. Some of the LARP folks also got shoes from him that were pretty great too. Between the 4 of us, I ordered 1200 plates. 2 of my buddies are big guys (read 6' and 250-300lbs) and me and the other guy are 5"11" and closer to 200lb. 1200 lames was more than enough. I think we all ended up with some extra. We got a giant spool of 550 cord. Something like 1000 yards. It was more than enough. I think some is still floating around years later. 

My armor took 175 lames. It was a mix of their medium and chocolate brown. More medium than chocolate. It looks like the site only sells black now. 

My bigger friend used 236 (thank you gmail for keeping old emails).

And now for some close up photos, armor styled by my pillow.

Back of armor
The back is the more straight forward design. 3 rows of 7 and 4 rows of 13.

Front of armor
It's mostly the same pattern as the back. 
1 row 7
1 row 7 complete lames + 2 3/4 lames
1 row 13
3 rows 11

The front I made of a design so that it fit my bust a little better and more flatteringly.


At 2 spots on the front, I added some space. There are 2 lames laced regularly at the top, but the bottoms overlap, in the blue circle. The green dots are the lacing points I used. The middle row of lacing points don't line up exactly, but they still lace. 

On the edges of the center front, I used some incomplete lames to cover the arm hole better. 


The red outline is the general shape of the lame. It's missing just the corner. The green dots are the lacing holes I used. I made it up as I want. When you cut leather, you can help smooth out the cut edge by rubbing the edge on a block of wood. 

You can adjust those as needed to fit you. Or, if you don't need the front to have that extra space, the back will be the same general style as the back. 

Some of the others used metal belt buckles for the sides. I decided that might mean I would need a buddy to get in and out of my armor, which I'm not a fan of. I choose this design.


The back has the leather strips. They are sliced with a hole at the front end of the slice (in orange). The entire opening, not only the circle, needs to be large enough for the button. The front hole only needs to be as large as the 550 cord, and NOT the size of the button. If it's too large, the button will pull through. 


 I used 550 cord to make knots. Specifically, Celtic button knots. I followed this video. 



I like this design because it has cord on both sides of the button. One end to lace into the armor, and the other to help pull the button through the leather strips. 

The shoulder and upper arms are a basic pattern. 

2 rows of 4 
2 rows of 6

I have a single piece of 550 cord that joins the edges together under my arm that I just pull tight and loosely bow tie to keep it tight around my arm. The tops are joined to the front and back at the points. I like the shoulders flexible so I can throw those SCA spear shots more easily. 

Now that we've gone over the general design, lets jump to how to lace the lames together. 

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/76/Lamellar_lacing.gif
lacing pattern. Photo from Wikipedia

Outside lacing pattern

Inside lacing pattern

550 cord easily heats and melts. For each piece of cord, I cut a piece (longer than I thoughts I would need) and melted the ends. While the melty part was still soft, I used some pliers to form a bit of a point. Please don't use your finger. It will hurt. At the ends of the lacing, I made tight knots right up against the lames and then melted the cord VERY SLIGHTLY to help prevent the knots coming undone from use. Mostly, that melting was to make the cord less slick against itself. Not to attach 2 pieces together. If you melt it too much, it will degrade the strength of the cord and might fall apart.
Because I also use it for the SCA, I have my kidney protection woven in. I also put some plates under the shoulders because I like my collarbone to stay intact and Kydex and foam are cheap. I had thought about putting some Kydex on the sides over my ribs, but I haven't gotten too many shots there, knock on wood, so I don't have that for now. 


I made the Kydex pieces, then had a buddy hold them against the outside while I was wearing it, and mark the right points. Then, I laced them in. I love that they are part of my armor and are therefore always in the right spot. I hated wearing weight belts. 


One of the things I love about lamellar is that you can custom it to your body very easily. Lace a portion and try it on that part of your body. Add and remove pieces as you need. I preferred to lace each line independently then lace the lines together. That made it much easier to add or remove lames as needed. And, if I decide later, I can much more easily make fitting changes. 

In grand total, I paid $150 for everything. Shipping of parts included. I have extra of everything. I have plans to make a new skirt of lamellar. But, it's been 5 years and that hasn't happened. Maybe one day. 

I think that's it. I can't remember how long it took me to make this. It's the perfect excuse to marathon some series and lace. It's held up pretty darn well after 5 years of use. I hadn't noticed how many little marks there were until I took these photos. They are probably from rubbing up against other folks armor. I haven't needed to treat the leather at all. I've worn it in the rain because sometimes it rains at Pennsic War. Then I just made sure to hang it up and let the dry or else it'll mold. Between events, I hang it in my closet. 

Tack så mycket for reading!

Sunday, January 3, 2016

Tablet Weaving: Mammen


I kept with the historical patterns. This one is a Mammen band based on a 10th century Denmark find.

I also tried out different colors as the background and a different edge color.

Halfway through I decided to try out using fishing swivels to alleviate the constant forward turn of the edge cards. I got Eagle Claw Ball Bearing Swivel size #0 from Walmart. They work great! The Historic Tablet Weaving group suggested ball bearing swivels and I can't agree more. Though, I did notice that if I pushed the edge twist build up to the swivel and got rid of it all, then the edge cards were super loose in comparison to the other cards with twist build up. So, all swivels or none next time. Found these on Amazon, so I'm hoping they work out.

Because it's a continuous warp, it seems like the twist buildup is causing the warp to "shrink" enough that it isn't long enough for all the pegs, so I have to get creative with warps and pegs to keep the tension steady. (which I'm still working on...)

Much much credit to Silvia Aisling who designed this
Pattern here

I did notice 1 error in the pattern. 13 picks from the end, the turn farthest right before the edge should be opposite (shaded square)

I set my loom up how I thought Aisling said too, but I had to try out a few initial turns before I got the pattern to works. It ended up that I turned forward for white square and backward for shaded. Which is opposite from the instructions. But c'est la vie. I'm sure I flipped something somewhere is the warping process.

French whipped the ends. Not sure I like it, but it finishes the ends.



Even the back looks cool!

Finished specs:
Pattern: Mammen
Fiber: Aunt Lydia's crochet thread classic size 10 in black, white, green, and brown. 
Cards: 17
Length: 49.5" (125.7 cm)
Starting width: 16mm
Smallest: 15mm

Ending width: 17 mm
Widest: 18 mm 

Sunday, November 1, 2015

Card weaving 3: Birka 6

Now that I think I have the basics, I wanted to jump to some historical patterns. So I started with Birka 6.

I found a wonderful pattern and explanation over at Finchingefeld's Fancies

She does a wonderful job explaining the setup. Though there are some key points:
Face the cards left and start with AD up. So AB are the ones closest to the weaver.

This was a lesson in undoing wefts. I kept getting ahead of myself and switching to the new pattern too soon and forgetting what was forward and backward. I had to remind myself that the new turn pattern was when I had the shuttle on the left side of my loom.

I also had a problem that the tension of the warping caused the loom to not be long enough at the end. At some point I had to take the whole weave off the farthest upper right peg to loosen it up enough. I'm also still having some issues with the trim getting narrower as I go, but less than before. I need to figure out how to keep it the same from beginning to end. I think the shift in the pattern in the X hides more in the looser beginning than the end. I also have no idea how to end the weaves aside from cutting the warp.

I think I might make a new pouch for Pennsic with this. I rather like it!

Finished specs:
Pattern: Birka 6
Fiber: Aunt Lydia's crochet thread classic size 10 in dark royal and natural 
Cards: 11
Length: 53 inches (134.6 cm)
Starting width:12 mm
Ending width: 9 mm


     
                                                         Start of trim left and end right. 

What to try next?

Monday, October 12, 2015

Card Weaving take 2: Leaves: Success!

After last time's failure, I switched to some GTT patterns. After hunting around the interwebs to figure how to read the patterns (thank you broken old word doc manual) I warped up the first leaves pattern. 14 cards. 2 colors. I only partly warped it, which maybe caused the warp to not stay tight. It also meant I couldn't use the tension bar. Next time I need to continuous warp it and see how that fixes it.
Enough with the learning, let's see the trim!


I'd call it a success! 

Need to work on how tight the weft is. The trim lost 5mm from beginning to end. Also, remembering to pull the little wft loop tight in so the edges aren't bumpy. Also need to keep all the warp the same tension, which I need to figure out when the pattern has a salvage because the edges were tighter than the pattern warps. 

Finished specs:
Pattern: GTT Leaves - 14CT-Leaves-2
Fiber: Aunt Lydia's crochet thread classic size 10 in white and peacock
Cards: 14
Length: 56cm
Starting width:16mm
Ending width: 11mm

And, I think my pattern marker is pretty nifty

It's a galvanized steel hanging decoration from Michael's hot glued onto the back of my pattern binder. The marker is a magnet sheet glued onto a piece of transparent file folder cut to shape and a popsicle stick. 

Sunday, October 4, 2015

Tablet weaving attempt 1: Mim's Kivrim

Got a wonderful little card tablet at Pennsic War this year from Pine Box Traders. I decided to sand, stain, and seal it because I just bought a ""teaching" loom because that's what I could afford and I already had the stain and seal.

Picked up some Aunt Lydia's Crochet thread classic size 10 in black, white, and peacock. Super cheap from JoAnn's with a coupon.

I tried to warp up this
from http://mimbles.com/tablet-weaving/pattern-library/

I thought I would save some thread on a practice run by not warping the whole length of the loom. However, I didn't use the tension peg in my ingenuity
, so I couldn't loosen it up as the threads tightened.


Double and triple checked by warp. Handy cloak pins are handy.



But this is the result


Not the pattern. Seems like it's just the points of the horn that are messed up. I tried a couple things to make them show up which is why it's not the same. The directions call for "twisting" the cards, which is kind of weird. Don't like it. And now the threads are too tights to keep rotating. So, that's done.

Next time I will try a pattern from someone else.


Sunday, August 17, 2014

Wire Elf Ear cuffs



mixture of 20 and 26 gauge colored copper wire
Grey elf LARP prop

Saturday, March 29, 2014

The saga of the Black Talon Scarves

45 yards of fleece for lots of projects!

Many hours cutting out little talons
All cut!
Many, many little black talon circles
That all have to be pinned!
And fringe sewn on
Then fringe cut
But finally all done!
And ready to welcome in the spring weather!

Finished size:
9" wide
74" long
includes 3" fringe on each end
Emblem is 8.5" wide